In his excellent book Perfect Pairings: A Master Sommelier’s Practical Advice for Partnering Wine and Food (University of California Press), author Evan Goldstein states “a rosé is rosé except when it is … a rosé!”

Goldstein’s indecision surely stems from rosé’s varied styles as reflected by its myriad colours, from clear and pink, to red and even black.

From dry to sweet and everything in between, rosé is back in vogue with wine drinkers, although often the high of the very best examples can be surpassed by the lows generated by the worst pinks in the market.

If you haven’t noticed, whenever a wine style begins to capture the imagination of consumers, a certain sector of the wine industry jumps into action and produces some of the most forgettable versions of the style in question. Rosé is no exception. It doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the current drink-pink renaissance, but for best results you may have to pay attention and jot down the odd name of the wines that really appeal to your taste.

Almost all rosé begins life as a red wine, inside a tank fermenting on its skins. The trick is to get the juice off the skins in a short period of time, stealing only a hint of colour and with little or no tannin; after that the fermentation continues as if it was a white wine. Similarly the wine should be chilled as if it’s a white wine, although I recommend you attune the temperature to the amount of residual sugar. The sweetest should be well-chilled while the driest are best served with only the slightest amount of chill on the bottle.

You will love the fresh Provençal style of the Chateau de la Galinière Rosé 2009 with its spicy, cherry, floral, rooty, red apple nose. Serve with duck salad, barbecued pork or a spicy pasta salad.

Find a bottle of 8th Generation Vineyard Pinot Meunier Rosé 2009 made in Okanagan Falls. We love the bright citrus fruit character with a dash of sweetness in the finish.

Similar to the 2008, the Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2009 offers up that bigger style rose from the Tavel appellation complete with a candied, soft cherry berry nose with bits of tobacco and earth in the finish. It should easily stand up to bigger, richer, summer fare.

If you are planning a summer wedding and need a sparkler to make a stunning outdoor toast, try the Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé N/V. This is a consistently delicious Crémant sparkler with a faint pink/coppery/salmon colour. Excellent for patio appetizers or sushi.

The small region of Navarra, just a bit northeast of Rioja, is home to the Ochoa Rosado de Lágrima Single Vineyard 2009. The cépage is garnacha and cabernet sauvignon run off the skins early to craft the perfect pale, red/orange colour. Stands up to bigger dishes.

The nose on the Torres De Casta Rosé 2009, is fresh and crisp packed with earthy, black cherry and fresh raspberry fruit nuances. Think salade Niçoise, corn on the cob, or a summer-style charcuterie lunch.

Most, but not all, of the wines are bottled under screw cap. Why producers are still insisting on using aroma scalping corks on these aromatic, summer sippers is beyond me.

Price: $19

UPC: 3357400399003

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Juicy, fresh, dry finish to go with barbecued pork or a spicy pasta salad.

8th Generation Vineyard Pinot Meunier Rosé 2009, Okanagan Falls

Price: $19 winery direct; restaurants

UPC: 6269900102045

Score: 88/100

Remarks: Love the bright citrus and light, red berry fruit flavours.

Domaine Lafond Tavel Roc-Epine 2009, Tavel, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $24

UPC: 785255000028

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Richer style that stands up to richer, flavourful summer fare.

Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace Brut Rosé N/V, Alsace, France

Price: $25

UPC: 03471952318005

Score: 89/100

Remarks: A consistently delicious Crémant sparkler. Weddings; patio parties.

Ochoa Rosado de Lágrima Single Vineyard 2009, Navarra, Spain

Price: $17

UPC: 08414167010123

Score: 87/100

Remarks: A delicious juicy, citrus, fruit-flavoured pink with just a twist of spice.

Torres De Casta Rosé 2009, Catalunya, Spain

Price: $13

UPC: 08410113002020

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Think salade Niçoise, corn on the cob, or a summer-style charcuterie lunch.