The Cheese Course

The public's interest in good things to eat from France (and similar domestic products) continues to build at the cheese counter. "What we're really seeing is the interest in small-production, artisanal cheeses - things made by one producer," says Alice Spurrell of the Cheese Shop at Menu Setters, at 1752 West 2nd Avenue. That interest doesn't apply just to traditional sources of specialty cheeses, such as France, Italy and Spain, but to B.C. products, as well. "We find a tremendous interest in locally made cheese - like those of David Wood [of Saltspring Cheese Company] and Moonstruck [also on Saltspring] and Mountain Meadow cheese, from Chase. People are really interested in trying those things," says Spurrell. A current popular cheese in her store has been Comte, the French equivalent of Gruyere. It's made in small batches from unpasteurized cow's milk, one day's milk at a time, in the alpine region of Franche-Comte, adjacent to Switzerland. When Spurrell and colleagues from her shop visited a producer there last fall, they selected a wheel of Comte that had been aged 30 months. It was stamped with their name, and when it arrived here, sold out in three days - all 40 kilos of it. The other sector she sees rapidly growing is sheep's milk cheeses, now that consumers realize they're widely varied and not particularly strong. The current big hit? Manchego, from Spain... an interview with Vancouver Sun Food Editor Murray McMillan

2010-02-14	Ossau Iraty
	Ossau Iraty (OH-soh-ear-ah-TEE) is a delicious AOC, traditional sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque region of the French Pyrenees using only unpasteurized milk. full article...
2009-01-04	Tomme Affine au Marc de Raisin
	Unpasteurized cow's milk cheese from the Savoie that has been soaked in Marc for one month in an airtight container, and then aged under a thick blanket of grape must. full article...
2007-11-04	Bouq’ Émisairre and Sauvignon Blanc
	Bouq’ Émisairre is a raw milk, ash covered ripened goats milk cheese from the famous Montreal cheese maker Pierre-Yves Chaput. The flavour has a refined minerally tang to it. full article...
2007-03-25	Gruyere l’Etivaz
	The flavour is like gruyere, but much more intense. It is sharp with hints of nuts and a slightly sweet/salty undertone. The texture is buttery smooth. Don’t forget about also using this cheese in the kitchen. full article...
2007-02-14	Selles-sur-Cher a Star of Loire
	Shaped like a round disc with bevelled sides, this ash covered goat milk cheese has a snow white interior and a chalky texture that becomes runny as it ripens with age. The ash maintains humidity on the cheese surface and aids in the growth of mould. full article...
2006-11-23	Raclette the Sociable Cheese
	Raclette is a semi-firm cow’s milk cheese originating from the Swiss Canton of Valais. As far back as the Middle Ages, shepherds found new strength in a delicious raclette, shared sociably amongst themselves. full article...
2006-11-19	Reblochon Steals the Show
	The name Reblochon comes from the verb reblocher, which means “to milk again”, or in the Savoyard dialect reblessa, which means “to steal, swipe or engage in thievery”. This is because Reblochon is made with the thicker, richer milk from the second milking. We can thank the farmers of the 14th century for this technique. full article...
2006-06-08	Canada's Grand Champion Cheese
	The winner of the washed rind category was also the overall winner or “Grand Champion” of the 2006 awards. This cheese, La Sauvagine, is made in Quebec by La Fromagerie Alexis de Portneuf, a division of Saputo Foods. full article...
2006-02-11	Cheddar Anyone
	As a versatile cheese for cooking, we sometimes forget how fabulous cheddar can be when served solo. As it ages, part of the milk protein crystallizes and forms small crunchy “salt like” bits in the cheese. The older the cheese, the more water loss, and subsequently the more crystals are formed and the more crumbly it gets. full article...
2005-12-10	Any Port In a Storm... With Cheese
	There is an abundance of fine port in local wine shops so you have a terrific excuse to try some with cheese. Firm cheeses are an easier match although rich and milder soft cheeses can be great. Here's our top 10 cheeses and port picks in no particular order. full article...