Grapes : Sauvignon Blanc

That was my initial introduction to Sauvignon Blanc. For a budding wine enthusiast this was at once terrifying (you want me to drink what?) and relieving (finally wine descriptors that make sense!), and even as a gnarly vine wine enthusiast that description has stuck with me. Of course, Sauvignon Blanc is so much more than that memorable phrase. This green-skinned grape most likely hails from France’s Loire Valley, where it can blindingly shine in the Kimmeridgian limestone and Silex flint. As the third most planted white variety in France, Sauvignon Blanc (from the French for sauvage, meaning wild), is also comfortably at home in Bordeaux, blending in harmony with Semillon; and also throughout Languedoc-Roussillon, contributing greatly to simple and tart Pays d’Oc IGP. The highly vigorous grape is widely adaptable, spreading as easily worldwide as its tangled and aggressive foliage. All things green are its hallmark: grass, hedge, meadow, asparagus, kiwi, green peppers, gooseberries, as well as passionfruit and elderflower in slightly warmer climates. Crisp, piercing acidity permeates all wines, save for those harvested in the hottest regions, and helps preserve freshness and zest in late harvest or oaked examples. The grape rocketed to fame over the past 20 years in New Zealand, finding a prime home for a concentrated, pungent, fresh and unoaked style. 

Today, many Kiwi Savvy producers aren't content to rest on the riches of their success, but are pushing styles forward. Wild ferment, various fermentation vessels, terroir and site specific wines, sparkling and low alcohol styles are being explored, with many to great success. 

May 6 is International Sauvignon Blanc day, and the Great New Zealand Wine Tiki Tour is skipping across Canada this week with a contingent of Kiwi winemakers pouring their cornerstone grape, plus a range of other wines.

Here are our top Sauvignon Blanc - from New Zealand and beyond - tasted at GOW over the past year. *Prices were accurate at time of publication. 

92. Pascal Jolivet Sauvage Sancerre 2012, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France. NA in Canada
The chalky soils of Champtin yield this organic sauvignon blanc, one of Jolivet's Grandes Cuvées. Aptly named Sauvage, this is wild fermented, spends a year on the lees and is bottled without filtration. Allow this to stretch its legs before drinking; this will reward you the favour and expand in the glass. Elegant and quietly confident, with slate, subtle wild herbs, white grapefruit pith and tight pear concentrating on the textured palate and holding through a lengthy finish. Acidity is brisk, tightening up this structured, savoury sauvignon. Beauty now, but will reward with five+ years in the cellar. TR 

92. Fouassier Père et Fils Sancerre Les Romains 2011, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France. $32.00
This isn't sauvignon blanc, it's Sancerre. Les Romains is 3 hectares of 30-ish year old vines, on silex, flinty clay across southwest exposed slopes. That is what you taste, and one reason why I appreciate this biodynamically managed, organically farmed wine. Light smokiness, pronounced stone and ripe pear, with a pear skin bitterness tempering the fruit. There's a vibrant fluidity in the mouth of this wine - more pronounced minerality, dense Anjou pear, mild honey, salted white grapefruit and savoury spice on the finish. Drink now (oysters! chèvre!), though this wine will continue to honey, mushroom and mature over the next 5-10+ years. TR

92. Joseph Mellot Cuvée Pierre Etienne Sancerre Blanc 2013, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France. $57.00
The grapes for Cuvée Pierre Etienne come off the properties best flint-based slopes facing the River Loire. A touch of colour is your clue this sauvignon is fermented and aged in oak barrels, split evenly between one, two and three year old wood, for 26 months. You sense the wood in the richer, round mouthfeel but not to the detriment of freshness. The nose is a complex mix of minerals with pears and lemongrass. The palate is a mix of creamy, spicy, smoky fruit with a hint of orange. The finish is long and complex. This bottling honours founder Pierre Etienne Mellot (1513) and his myriad descendants. Production is limited to 250 cases. The label is a reproduction from the 1930s. AG

91. Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve To Kalon Vineyard 2012, Napa Valley, California, United States. $47.00
Passion fruit, vanilla, toasty lees, lanolin, grapefruit, floral, guava and artichoke aromas. Dry, fresh, creamy, juicy palate. Grassy, vanilla, grapefruit, lanolin, lemon grass, nettle, spicy lees flavours with a touch of passion fruit and jalapeno on the finish. Good concentration, fruit and length. Attractive style for drinking now or ageing further 2-4 years. AG

91. Joseph Mellot La Chatellenie Sancerre 2014, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France. $38.00
Sancerre, is there a better sauvignon blanc for the money. Flint-rich chalky clay soils are the story here with simple winemaking, low fermentation temperatures in stainless steel and ageing on the fine lees.  The steep slopes of the La Chatellenie vineyard yield a fresh persistent white with ‘flinty’ nuances that support a piercing citrus, gooseberry, lime zest flavoured white with flecks of orange and equally balanced acidity. A fabulous wine for shellfish or even more complex fish dishes. Delicious. Take that Burgundy. AG

91. Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand. $29.99
A year of age in the bottle always helps this wine. The CBSB is intense and concentrated - think long hangtime. The nose is packed full of tropical notes lead by gooseberries and grapefruit lashed with jalapeno bits and lemon. The attack is as fresh and as full-bodied as sauvignon blanc gets with more grapefruit and kiwi with an undercurrent of stony/minerality and a chalky finish. One of the better Cloudy Bay bottles I have tasted since the inaugural 1985 vintage. Perfect for steamed west coast mussels. AG

90. Robert Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2013, Napa Valley, California, United States. $20.00
The Mondavi goal was always a richer, Napa Valley style but with brightness of sauvignon. In that respect director of winemaking Genevieve Janssens has stayed the course with the 2013 a 90/10 sauvignon blanc sémillon blend. Once again the nose is fabulous melange of tropical fruits mixing gooseberry, lime orange blossoms and melons with a twist of lemon. Love the mineral notes in the back end. Rich and full at 14.5 percent alcohol but you hardly feel it. The fruit is a mix of Wappo Hill in the Stag's Leap District and To Kalon in Oakville with some eleven percent Mendocino fruit for brightness. Sixty percent of the juice is barrel fermented but only eight percent is in New French oak. Amazing quality for 45,000 cases. good value. AG 

90. Clos du Soleil Saturn Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Keremeos, Similkameen Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $29.00
An expansive, ripe late harvest sauvignon blanc, with rich butter, deep peach, apricot and floral notes. Intense lime and mandarin blossom glides along with vanilla, honey and heady pear nectar on the palate. A spicy and savoury finish lingers. Would make a lovely pour alongside vanilla or peach cheesecake or blue cheeses. TR

90. Concha y Toro Terrunyo Costa Block 5 Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile. $20.00
The Terrunyo Block Five Sauvignon Blanc comes off the Los Boldos Vineyard in a cool section of Casablanca Valley near to the sea. Add a cool vintage (2013) and this austere, stony, mineral herbal sauvignon is electric. The palate is a complex mix of sea salt, citrus and hints of gooseberry with tropical undercurrent and just a twist of bitterness in the finish. Real wine for grown-ups. AG

90. Cantina Nals Margreid Mantele Sauvignon 2013, Trentino- Alto-Adige, Italy. $30.00
Potent and assertive ricola and herbal aromatics hint to the provenance of this characterful sauvignon - grown in the alpine foothill vineyards of northeastern Italy's Alto Adige. Green apple, stony flint, potent mountain herbs and white grapefruit pith in this fuller bodied, white pepper spiced white. Concentrated enough to stand up to stronger food flavours; try with spiced pork or wild game. TR

90. Haywire Waters and Banks Sauvignon Blanc Raised in Concrete 2014, Summerland, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $25.00
Named for the Summerland vineyard owned by Terry Waters and Cathy Banks, this sauvignon blanc has been given a great deal of attention beginning with Chilean rock star Pedro Parra who calls the site rare and special. It was fermented and aged in concrete using wild yeast. The stony herbal blossoms and subtle lemon open what is a creamy textured white no doubt broadened via the concrete. More alluring wild herbs, lemon oil, light cream, lees, subtle wildflowers, clementine pith/peel and wild fennel stream on the palate, with fresh gooseberry-clad acidity and a spice lingering mineral finish. More Okanagan than sauvignon blanc its wine that reinvents itself with every sip. Pour alongside game fowl and richer fish dishes. Good value. AG-TR

90. Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand. $27.59
The Seresin SB comes off three vineyards, 18 blocks all certified organic and selected from three different soils: alluvial, alluvial shingles and clay. The blend is 94/6 sauvignon blanc/sémillon from seven clones. Complexity is the goal here and frankly should be the goal for the other 98 percent of Kiwi SB sold in Canada. About 15 percent of the naturally fermented juice spend time in oak. The colour is medium yellow, the nose nettles and ripe tropical fruits with perfectly styled acidity. The palate is complex with chalky textures and more ripe melon fruit with a squeeze of citrus. Blessedly dry. Chicken, cheese, veal it all works here. Bravo. AG 

90. Tohu Mugwi Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Awatere Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand. $22.00
Open nose with nutty, grapefruit rind, canned jalapeno, floral, lemon grass, green apple, honey, passion fruit, vanilla and waxy lees aromas. Fresh, round, juicy and dry palate with good elegance and acidity. Lemon grass, passion fruit, grassy, gooseberry, nettle, lees, waxy flavours. Good complexity and finesse if a bit leesy. Nice use of wild yeast and more neutral oak. AG-ST

90. Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Aconcagua Costa, Valle de Aconcagua, Region de Aconcagua, Chile. $24.00
This is first class sauvignon and has been since it was first launched. The vines, grown at the Manzanar Vineyard, Aconcagua Costa are a mere 12 kilometers from the cool Pacific Ocean. Very little pre-maceration has led to a beautifully structured, aromatic white wine that dances a herbal, mineral, guava, passion fruit ballet on the palate yet again. This wine was made for oysters even if it can’t make the cut in local private wine shops – the Chilean bias is my guess, but it does reside on the reserve wine list at Earls, across Canada, at a very modest price. Delicious. AG

90. Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand. $29.99
Kevin Judd is a Kiwi icon thanks to a long run at Cloudy Bay but that wine has nothing on this stony, mineral precise sauvignon blanc that frankly says more about the site than the variety. Big and super bright you are reeled in right from its stony, dried herb, mineral, passion fruit nose that leads to a tightly wound citrus, guava gooseberry fruit finish. One of the more complex examples of this varietal that comes out of New Zealand. Pair with sablefish. AG

90. Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Sonoma County, California, United States. $39.00
Always fresh this wine has leaned out over the years making it more and more interesting to food lovers. The nose is highly expressive showing ripe grapefruit, guava, nectarine with lemon thyme and assorted dried herbs. Some of the wine is fermented in neutral oak to add texture. Some sémillon and a musque clone of SB heightens the floral notes. The palate is dry and crisp the finish medium long and zesty with a touch of complex in bitters. It was a perfect wine for our barbecue chicken but goat cheese and assorted grilled fish work here too. AG

89. Mission Hill Terroir Collection No.16 Vines and Cover Crops Southern Cross Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $25.00
Floral, grapefruit, gooseberry, chalky, light vanilla, passion fruit and light artichoke aromas. Dry, fresh, juicy and elegant palate with a touch of austerity. Good grapefruit, kiwi, passion fruit, waxy, grassy, lees, vanilla and asparagus flavours. Nice length and intensity for food. Should improve with 1-2 years in bottle. Good effort in a more reserved style. AG 

89. Haywire Sauvignon Blanc Raised in Concrete White Label 2013, Summerland, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $17.39
With the trademarked tagline "raised in concrete" and a tasting note promising this was "mercifully spared oak" you can rightfully assume this is not your average sauvignon blanc. Indeed, this wine reflects the character of its place (Trout Creek Vineyard, Summerland) rather than the grape. Gardenia blossoms, honey and herbs open to a creamy and generous palate, textured with dried thyme, lemon thistle, nettle, stone and gooseberry and a white grapefruit pithy bitterness on the finish. Native ferment comes through via an earthy, dried thyme savoury element. Very intriguing and layered - kept me going back to the glass. TR 

89. Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2011, Sonoma County, California, United States. $27.00
Light ash, toast and red apple aromas lead to a round and full bodied palate with white honey, baked lemon, pear and gooseberry. Fresh melon on the finish, and lemony acidity keep this wine buoyant, and an herbal, anise-medicinal note on the finish keeps it edgy. This ripe and creamy oaked white will equally suit white fish as it will white meats. I recommend poached lobster in lemon cream sauce. TR

89. Chateau de Sancerre 2012, Sancerre, Upper Loire, Loire, France. $30.00
Struck stone, lemon and chalk open this classic Sancerre, always a familiar sight on BC lists and shelves. The crisp, fresh, medium-bodied palate continues the flinty notes of the nose along with apricot fuzz, bright lemon, white grapefruit, tight white florals and youthful white peach. Acidity is shining and mineral laden and the finish is brisk and dry, calling for shellfish. TR 

89. Galerie Naissance Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Napa Valley, California, United States. $40.00
A surprisingly good wine, as in, it’s fresh and bright and very sauvignon blanc. The juice is fermented 50/50 in stainless steel tanks and neutral French oak. The nose is tropical with grapefruit and melon notes, good underlying acidity with grassy apricot flavours and a creamy textured finish. It’s New World but sophisticated. AG 

89. Tohu Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand. $21.99
Tight upon opening with lees, kiwi, grapefruit, canned jalapeno, light asparagus, passion fruit aromas. With time in the glass it develops a round, fresh, juicy, creamy texture that leads into a racy palate with grapefruit, honey, floral, passion fruit, light asparagus and nettle flavours. Delicate, flavourful and lengthy finish, a fine effort. AG-ST

89. Blue Mountain Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Okanagan Falls, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $19.00
A blend of two clones, one high density vineyard and 7-8 year old vines make up this sauvignon blanc quickly becoming one of BC's best. More complexities come via a whole cluster pressed ferment with wild yeast, and, 30 percent was barrel aged and fermented in French oak sur lie for 2-4 months. Stone, light toast and pear is brightened by tart green apple, white grapefruit and gooseberry in this finessed, medium bodied white. Fine lees and finer spices linger on the lengthy, savoury citrus finish. Can age for the next 5 years, but drinking beautifully now with halibut. TR 

89. Maverick Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $19.00
The 2014 growing season was one of the warmest since 1998 and 2003 for both heat and length and you can feel it and taste it in this sauvignon. At 13.8 alcohol this is weighty and the fruit is ripe yet not overbearing. Juice was settled and then fermented (15°-16° C) in stainless steel tanks. The press portion was barrel fermented in used French oak. All of it was left on its fine lees for 3 months prior to blending and bottling. Look for classic sauvignon aromatics with ripe almost sweet honey grassy pink grapefruit flavours. It finishes long with a hint of sweetness. Perfect for west coast seafood dishes and or chicken. AG

89. Joseph Mellot Le Tronsec Pouilly-Fume 2014, Pouilly-Fume, Upper Loire, Loire, France. $33.99
The Mellot Pouilly Fume plot totals 9.5 hectares some planted to Kimmeridgian limestone marls and some in the village of Saint Laurent l ’Abbaye is planted over stones over clay. Simple winemaking: crushed, pressed and settled at low temperatures stainless steel tanks. The colour is pale, the nose a riot of white flowers, minerals, grapefruit and a hint of pepper. Delicate stylish but flavourful with enough weight to take on roast chicken. A super classic vintage. AG

89. Haywire Free Form Natural and Unfiltered White 2014, Summerland, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $34.90
Free form white is true to its name, no yeast, no enzymes and no sulphur is used in production. This sauvignon blanc went through wild yeast ferment and five months of skin contact before pressing leaving an earthy, flaked sea salt entry that leads to a savoury, stone, meadow grass, saline, elderflower palate that is somewhat grippy and that appears a little cloudy. It has fine concentration that finishes with heady, medicinal citrus notes flecked with spicy flint and a touch of heat. Intriguing and characterful, serve close to room temperature for the best experience. TR 

89. Mission Hill Terroir Collection No. 16 Southern Cross Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada. $26.09
A great follow up to the very good 2013. Love the fresh floral nose with scents of grapefruit, gooseberry and passion fruit notes. The attack is dry and fresh with bright juicy fruit flavours reminiscent of grapefruit, grassy passion fruit and citrus. The acidity is low but adequate leaving a long, balanced, reserved style that can work with more delicate fish dishes. Well done. AG

89. Errazuriz Max Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Aconcagua Costa, Valle de Aconcagua, Region de Aconcagua, Chile. $16.49
The grapes for this Max Reserva Aconcagua Costa Sauvignon Blanc were sourced from the Manzanar Vineyard, less than 13 kilometres from the Pacific at some 300 metres of altitude. Careful handling preserves the fresh fruit character in this wine while three months on the lees increases its creamy, voluminous textures. Juicy, spiced lemon and stone lead to vibrant tropical fruit, pineapple flecked with medicinal herbs, fine lees and light smoke leaving a medium-bodied, mouth filling white that is hard to ignore. Brisk spicing closes out a snappy finish. Well done and listed at a great price. AG-TR