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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Today a few words on building a great cheese plate for a holiday get-together.

It's a busy time of the year, and it's nice to keep things as simple as possible. I think you can apply that to cheese plates as well.

Usually when I start to choose cheese for my own gathering, or when I am helping customers in the store, I ask two or three questions to get the ball rolling.

How many people are you having over and do you know them well?

Will you serve cheese before dinner or after the meal?

How much other food is being served?

The questions are intended to get you thinking about the kind of function you are having, and they can aid in picking an appropriate selection for your guests.

Do you know your guests well? If you are having close friends to your home, there is a good chance you may already know the kind of cheese they might enjoy. That helps. When entertaining a group, you may never have even met everyone, let alone know their tastes, so it is always good to choose a more general selection. It is fine to introduce people to things they have never had and push the envelope a bit, but you want to make people feel welcome in your home, not scare them.

If you are serving cheese before dinner, and you are having a large meal afterwards, try to keep the flavours light. You don't want to dampen taste buds with strong blue cheese and then serve them a delicate vegetable soup or a fish dish, as they won't be able to enjoy your cooking. Also you don't want to fill them up with too much food or they will be struggling by dessert. A nice selection of a few delicate flavours, perhaps a fresh goat, a firm cheese and something nutty and firm, would work nicely.

If you are serving cheese in a party setting where the cheese is just sitting out, then it really depends on how many people and how much other food you are serving. If you have a lot of people and your house will be quite crowded, sometimes two smaller plates in two different rooms is a good idea. If you are having a smaller intimate crowd, one nice selection for you guests will be plenty. Cheese is a nice item for a house party as it can sit out all evening and you don't have to fuss over it.

If you are having cheese in the traditional European way, after dinner and/or before dessert, then you need to choose carefully. Will the cheese pair with the wine you are serving and will it be appropriate after the meal you have served? I always like to have 2 or 3 cheeses maximum after a multi-course dinner. I think the strong flavours or cheese are overwhelming at that point if you have too many. I usually like to serve one firm and one soft, or perhaps a blue if we will be having port or a dessert wine by then.

So now that you have determined who is coming to your event and what type of cheese plate you need. I always like to have a nice representation of styles on any cheese platter. If you want 5 or 6 cheeses, perhaps a soft, firm, blue, goat, and sheep cheese would be good. If you are trying to pair with a big wine, more firm than soft would be preferred. If you know your guests and they like cheese, then add in a washed rind cheese as a stronger, daring flavour. Decoration with dried dates, apricots, fresh pears and other less acidic fruit. Cooked fruit compote like fig or quince works very well. Grapes, of course, look great on a cheese plate, but be aware; they can clash with the flavours of the cheese if they are too tart.

A tasty pre-dinner selection might include:

Manchego - a fruity flavoured sheep milk cheese from Spain, or another nice sheep cheese

Chèvre - any nice fresh Chèvre could be good before dinner, avoiding any that have super strong flavours

A mountain cheese like Gruyere, Comte or Maréchal

A great party selection might include:

One or two soft cheeses - one soft ripened ( Delice de Bourgogne, Dauphin, le Coutance) and one Chèvre

Two firm cheeses - perhaps one sharper Italian style (Piave Vecchio or Pecorino Pepato) or a cheddar (a nice English farmhouse or a really aged Quebec or Ontario cheddar), and a nuttier, less sharp cheese to compliment that (Nostrala, Tomme de Montagne)

One blue -this one really depends on your crowd. If they love blue or you do at least then a Roquefort or gorgonzola can be great. If you're not sure your crowd is that adventurous, perhaps a milder blue (Saint Agur or Bresse bleu)

One washed rind cheese - always consider that these tend to smell a little stronger so if your party is going to be in a confined space or in your office you may want to ponder skipping this category even though they are delicious. Otherwise if you a have a cheese-loving crowd your plate wouldn't be complete without one ( Morbier, Fleur d 'Aunis, Epoisses)

And maybe a wild card - one of your favourites or something crazy if you think your crowd will enjoy it!

After dinner cheese selection might be:

A soft cheese (La Tur - a soft Italian cheese, or Brie de Meaux)

A firm cheese (Pecorino Affienato, or Comté Montagne)

A blue - (Bleu de Sassenage, or Cashel Blue)

Having said all that, here is my last suggestion. Pick whatever you want; I always do. It's your party, and it is a representation of you, so have the cheese you love and would like to introduce to your friends. Have fun with it, and don't make it a chore. Remember, it is about getting together with friends and family and having a good time.


Written By: Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell
Allison Spurrell

Allison Spurrell stocks the larders of the city’s finest restaurants and your fridge alike, through les amis du FROMAGE, cheese shops in the Kitslano and Strathcona neighbourhoods in Vancouver which she runs with Joe Chaput. Their shelves are filled with 400 cheeses, including local, raw milk French, Italian and other specialties. They also sell foie gras, pâtés, crackers, biscuits, varietal olive oils, vinegars and other specialty food items and their kitchen in Strathcona prepares popular frozen taken away meals. Les amis du FROMAGE has received Vancouver Magazine's Restaurant Award as a top food supplier to Vancouver’s best restaurants and hotels. Allison is a proud member of Confrerie les Chevalier du Taste Fromage de France. To buy cheese visit: les amis du FROMAGE in Kitslano - 1752 West 2nd Ave | Tel (604) 732-4218 or Strathcona - 843 East Hastings St | Tel 604-253-4218 | www.buycheese.com.