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Anthony Gismondi on Wine

Looking back on 2013, we turn to some of the emerging trends in sensibly priced wines that could be used for entertaining throughout December.

Holiday Party Picks

Red blends continue to make headlines with consumers who may be approaching over-saturation when it comes to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There are always exceptions, and you could add Pinot Noir, maybe even Gamay, back into the mix but that's likely because there have been so few attractive examples of these varietals in the affordable price range. We have seen a lot of excellent red wines disappear into the stratosphere with price hikes that make no sense unless of course you've got nothing but money to burn.

Most of Bordeaux and Burgundy - at least all the top-end wines - now fit that class and at hundreds of dollars per bottle and worse the entire category is in danger of losing touch with wine drinkers who simply want a glass of well-made wine with a price closer to a dinner entrée than their monthly rent.

Interestingly, white wine seems headed in the opposite direction. With exception of the always popular Chardonnay, most white wines are coming out of nowhere to be embraced by even hardcore red wine drinkers. Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Riesling and Gewürztraminer seem revived and there is interest in Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Vermentino, Arneis and more.

A rising euro will likely stall our current love affair with France, Italy and Spain, but the selection is so varied and intellectually stimulating, it should easily hold its own against California, Chile, Argentina and Australia, where dull and predictable is now the norm.

Closer to home, the Okanagan continues to make strides, despite some dodgy vintages in 2010 and 2011. There are few bargains locally so selection needs to be deliberate, as in it has to match the food or the tastes of your guests. What follows is a dozen picks, plus our weekend six-pack. That's 18 bottles to kick off your holiday shopping and every selection over delivers for the price.

If I had to pick one sparkling wine to entertain with at home I'm not sure I could but two current favourites would include: a Spanish cava Parés Baltà Cava Brut B ($20), and from Italy, Anna Spinato Prosecco Organic ($15). Both are in the bright, fresh style and can be served with or without food although they are best with appetizers.

Spicy foods need a bit of residual sugar to balance the heat and let's face it, some of your guests will prefer an off-dry white rather than anything too dry so they can perform double duty. The killer value is De Bortoli DB Traminer Riesling Family Selection ($12), an Oz white that punches well above its weight.

The local equivalent in price and quality is the Gehringer Brothers Ehrenfelser Classic 2012 ($15). Both would be fun with spicy tuna sushi or a spicy Indian dish.

If you can't get enough Italian wine, here are some favourite party picks that are all better with food. Two can'tmiss whites in the dry, crisp, foodfriendly style are Poggiotondo Toscana Bianco ($15) by Alberto Antonini and a Neil Empson selection: Bollini Pinot Grigio Trentino 2012 ($18). Our red pick is the Altesino Rosso di Montalcino ($30) to accompany game dishes, stews, meatballs or meaty pastas and pizzas.

From France and Spain, we begin with ultra-versatile appetizer white Torres Vina Esmeralda 2012 ($15). A little further afield but still in Catalonia is the workhorse Sola Fred Montsant ($16), a smooth, rich Carignan/Grenache blend.

A delicious white with a Canadian connection is the El Petit Bonhomme Blanco 2012 ($15), made by Canadian winemaker Nathalie Bonhomme. Finally, from the Rhone, the bargain pick is La Vieille Ferme Côtes du Ventoux 2011 ($13) or the upscale La Domeliere Rasteau ($20).

Arc Du Rhone Côtes du Rhone Villages 2011, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $15

UPC: 003430560003451

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Fresh black cherry, meaty, licorice, peppery, savoury aromas in what is a light-bodied but round palate with licorice, black cherry, resin, pepper, rosemary flavours. Good fruit and balance at a great price. Consistent label.

 

Wolf Blass Gold Label Chardonnay 2012, Adelaide Hills, South Australia

Price: $23

UPC: 098137333412

Score: 91/100

Remarks: This wine just keeps getting better, proving Oz Chardonnay is on its way back to respectability among serious Chardonnay drinkers. So fresh and bright with smoky green apple, peachy fruit and laced with citrus notes from front to back. Creamy but hardly filling, it walks the fine line between rich and lean with just a trace of French oak for complexity. This will age gracefully under screwcap through 2016 and beyond. Killer value.

 

Cono Sur Single Vineyard Block 21 Pinot Noir Viento Mar 2011, Valle de San Antonio, Chile

Price: $20

UPC: 7804320056227

Score: 88/100

Remarks: A new look for the Vision series, this Cono Sur Pinot is fresh and juicy but full-bodied with light tannins. The palate is a mix of spicy, savoury, celery, cherry cola, coffee and rhubarb flavours with a hint of tea and smoke on the finish. Good elegance and fruit intensity that will only improve in the bottle over the next year or two. Tough to beat the value here.

 

Telmo Rodriguez Viña Ciento Cinco 105, Cigales, Castilla-Leon, Spain

Price: $20

UPC: 08437001566914

Score: 87/100

Remarks: Intense black cherry nose with a strong meaty, rooty, licorice undercurrent. The attack is supple, the flavours a touch sweet and sour with plum, tobacco and licorice notes. Try this with turkey, meat-based pizza and mushroom pasta dishes.

 

Gérard Bertrand Saint Chinian Syrah Mourvèdre 2010, Coteaux du Languedoc, France

Price: $22

UPC: 003514120105233

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Bright round, fresh palate with some light tannins. The entry is round and warm with black cherry jam, plum, sausage meat, peppery, savoury, tobacco, mineral and sage flavours. A rich red with big, juicy fruit and light tannins. Drink now and over the next few years. Continued fine quality and value.

 

Domaine Maby La Fermade Lirac 2011, Rhone Valley, France

Price: $28

UPC: 3466882111215

Score: 89/100

Remarks: Ripe, round, full, warm and suave palate. Black raspberry, chocolate, peppery, savoury, tobacco, kirsch, orange peel flavours. Forward style with a warm finish but good fruit and intensity to go with duck and lamb. Good value here.

 

Written By: ag
Anthony Gismondi
Anthony Gismondi

Anthony Gismondi is a Canadian wine journalist and one of North America's most influential voices in wine. For over 30 years, he has been the wine columnist for The Vancouver Sun. The twice-weekly column is distributed across Canada through the Postmedia Network to millions of readers. In addition, Anthony hosts the BC Food & Wine Radio Show, broadcast in 25 markets across B.C. and available as a podcast on major platforms. He launched Gismondionwine.com in 1997, attracting one million monthly users from 114 countries. It continues to be a valuable resource full of tasting notes, intelligent wine stories and videos for the trade and consumers. Conversations with wine personalities are available on his  YouTube Channel.